Guide
Buying your first home, start to finish
Everything between deciding to buy and getting the keys, written out honestly. Read it in twenty minutes; use it over the next year.
The five things that decide the outcome
Buyers who get these right have a boring transaction. Boring is the goal.
A down payment plus reserves
Not just the down payment. Closing costs and a few months of expenses in the bank are what keep the first broken water heater from becoming a crisis.
A real pre-approval
Not a pre-qualification from a website. A letter backed by verified income and credit is what makes a seller take your offer seriously.
An agent who knows the streets
Local knowledge is what tells you whether an asking price is optimistic or a bargain, and which inspector actually crawls the attic.
Contingencies you keep
In a hot market buyers waive inspections and appraisals to win. Understand precisely what you are giving up before you do it.
Patience with the timeline
From accepted offer to keys is about 30 days. Most of it is waiting, and rushing the parts you control rarely shortens the parts you do not.
Four hours of education
Our homebuyer course is free, and it is required for down payment assistance. Members who take it before shopping close faster and negotiate better.
Saving the down payment
The twenty percent figure is stubborn folklore. It is a real threshold, because crossing it removes private mortgage insurance, but it is not an entry requirement. Conventional loans start at three percent down, VA loans at zero for eligible service members and veterans, and our First-Time Buyer Program contributes up to $7,500 on top of whatever you have saved.
On a $400,000 home, three percent is $12,000 and twenty percent is $80,000. At $1,200 saved a month, that is the difference between ten months and five and a half years of waiting. There is a genuine cost to putting less down, roughly $150 a month in mortgage insurance on that loan, but there is also a cost to waiting five years in a market that may not wait with you.
Whatever the target, keep the money somewhere boring and liquid. A high-yield savings account at 4.15% APY earns about $2,900 a year on a $70,000 balance and is available the day you need it. Money you will spend within three years does not belong in the stock market. Underwriting also wants to see it seasoned, meaning sitting in your account for at least sixty days, so move funds from other accounts early rather than the week before closing.
Getting pre-approved
A pre-qualification is an estimate based on what you typed into a form. A pre-approval is a decision, made after a lender verifies your income, assets, and credit. Sellers know the difference, and in a competitive situation the second one is often what separates two otherwise identical offers.
Bring two years of tax returns and W-2s, thirty days of pay stubs, sixty days of statements for every account you will draw from, and identification. If you are self-employed, expect to add two years of business returns and a year-to-date profit and loss statement. The pre-approval itself takes about fifteen minutes to start and is typically decided within two business days, at no cost.
Once you have the letter, protect it. Do not change jobs, do not finance a car, and do not open a store card for a discount on a mattress. We re-pull credit shortly before closing, and a new payment that changes your debt ratios can undo an approval in the final week. Members lose loans this way every year, always for something small.
Making an offer
An offer is a price plus a set of terms, and in most negotiations the terms carry more weight than buyers expect. Earnest money of one to three percent signals seriousness. A flexible closing date can be worth thousands to a seller coordinating their own move. A shorter inspection window costs you nothing if you already have an inspector lined up.
Contingencies are the exits you keep. The financing contingency releases you if the loan falls through. The appraisal contingency protects you if the home appraises below the contract price, which matters because we lend against the appraised value, not the price you agreed to. The inspection contingency lets you renegotiate or walk after seeing what is behind the walls. Waiving any of them makes an offer stronger and makes you more exposed; waive them deliberately, if at all, and never because you feel rushed.
Inspection and appraisal
A home inspection costs $400 to $700 and is the best money you will spend in the entire transaction. Go along and follow the inspector through the house. The written report will list dozens of items, and the skill is telling the difference between a note and a problem: a missing outlet cover is a note, and a roof at the end of its life, a cracked heat exchanger, or evidence of water in the basement is a problem.
The appraisal is a separate exercise and it is for the lender, not for you. An appraiser establishes what the property is worth as collateral. If it comes in below the contract price, you have three options: the seller reduces the price, you cover the gap in cash, or you use your appraisal contingency to exit. This is the moment that contingency earns its keep.
Closing day
You will receive your Closing Disclosure at least three business days before you sign. Read it against the Loan Estimate you received at application, line by line. The loan amount, rate, monthly payment, and cash to close should all be recognizable. Ask about anything that is not, before you arrive.
Do a final walkthrough within twenty-four hours of closing to confirm the home is in the condition you agreed to and that any negotiated repairs were made. At the table, bring a government-issued photo ID and your funds by wire or cashier's check. Verify wire instructions by calling the title company at a number you looked up yourself, never a number in an email. Real estate wire fraud is common, and the money is almost never recovered.
Then you sign, the loan funds, the deed records, and someone hands you the keys. The whole process, from accepted offer to that moment, usually takes about thirty days.
A realistic first-year timeline
Most first-time buyers move from serious intent to keys in nine to twelve months.
Months one to six: save and repair credit
Build the down payment and reserves, pay down revolving balances below 30% of their limits, and correct any errors on your credit report. This is where the rate you eventually get is decided.
Month seven: course and pre-approval
Take the four-hour homebuyer course, then get pre-approved. The letter is good for 90 days and comes with a 90-day rate lock once you are under contract.
Months eight to ten: shop and offer
Tour with your agent, learn the market by seeing it, and expect to write more than one offer. Being outbid is normal and is not a verdict on your budget.
Month eleven: inspect, underwrite, close
Roughly thirty days from accepted offer to keys. Answer document requests the day they arrive and this is the smoothest month of the whole process.
Rates current as of July 2026 and subject to change. Membership eligibility required. This is a demonstration website; rates, products, and figures shown are illustrative only.
Common questions
How much do I need saved in total?
Plan on your down payment, plus two to three percent of the price for closing costs, plus two to three months of expenses in reserve. On a $400,000 home with five percent down, that is roughly $20,000 plus $10,000 plus your emergency fund.
Is renting throwing money away?
No. Renting buys flexibility and a fixed, predictable cost with no exposure to a failing roof. Buying builds equity and fixes your housing cost against inflation. If there is a real chance you will move within three years, renting is usually the better financial answer.
What credit score should I aim for?
620 opens the door on a conventional loan and 740 gets the best pricing. The gap between those two is worth about 0.5% on your rate, or roughly $125 a month on a $400,000 loan, so a few months spent improving a score often pays for itself many times over.
Should I waive the inspection to win a bidding war?
We would not. If you must strengthen the offer, consider shortening the inspection window to five days or converting it to an information-only inspection instead of dropping it entirely. You keep your eyes open and the seller keeps their certainty.
What happens if the appraisal comes in low?
We lend against the appraised value, so a $400,000 contract that appraises at $385,000 leaves a $15,000 gap. The seller can reduce the price, you can bring the difference in cash, or you can exit under your appraisal contingency.
Can I buy while carrying student loans?
Yes, and most first-time buyers do. Underwriting counts your monthly payment, not the balance, so an income-driven plan with a $210 payment affects you far less than the $48,000 balance behind it suggests.
Start with the free course
Four hours, no cost, and required for down payment assistance. It is the cheapest thing you will do all year that changes what you pay.